History
Although the practice of rock climbing was an important component of
Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the
sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth
century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually
from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right. As rock
climbing matured, grading systems were created in order to more
accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years,
both climbing techniques, and the equipment climbers use to advance the
sport, have evolved in a steady fashion.
History
Although the practice of Rock climbing was an important component of
Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the
sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth
century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually
from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right. As rock
climbing matured, grading systems were created in order to more
accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years,
both climbing techniques, and the equipment climbers use to advance the
sport, have evolved in a steady fashion.
Protection: spring-loaded or static metal devices designed to be
inserted into rock cracks or other irregular surfaces. Protection is
placed as the climber ascends; the climber clips the rope into the
protection. The protection works in tandem with the belayer to prevent
the climber from hitting the ground in the event of a fall.
Belay:
Harness:
Overview:
Climbers usually work in pairs, with one climbing and the other
belaying. In lead climbing, the belayer feeds rope to the lead climber
through a belay device. The leader climbs up, occasionally placing
protection or clipping preplaced bolted hangers, until the top is
reached. The belayer is ready to "lock off" the rope if the leader
falls.
Both climbers attach the rope to their climbing harness, usually tying
into their harness with a figure-eight knot or double bowline knot. The
leader either places protection or clips into permanent protection
already attached to the rock. In traditional climbing, the protection
is removable. Usually nuts or Spring-loaded camming device (often
referred to as "cams" or "friends") are set in cracks in the rock
(although pitons are sometimes used). In sport climbing the protection
is metal loops called hangers. Hangers are secured to the rock with
either expanding masonry bolts taken from the construction industry, or
by placing glue-in bolt systems. In ice climbing the protection is Ice
Screw or similar devices hammered or screwed into the ice by the
leader, and removed by the second climber.
The lead climber typically connects the rope to the protection with
carabiners or quickdraws. If the lead climber falls, he will fall twice
the length of the rope out from the last protection point, plus rope
stretch (typically 5% to 8% of the rope out), plus slack. If any of the
gear breaks or pulls out of the rock or if the belayer fails to lock
off the belay device immediately, the fall will be significantly
longer. Thus if a climber is 2 meters above the last protection he will
fall 2 meters to the protection, 2 meters below the protection, plus
slack and rope stretch, for a total fall of over 4 meters.
If the leader falls, the belayer arrests the rope. This is achieved by
running the rope through a belay device attached to the belayer's
harness. The belay device runs the rope through a series of sharp
curves that, when operated properly, greatly increase the friction and
stop the rope from running. Some of the more popular types of belay
devices are the ATC Belay Device, the Figure 8 and various auto-locking
belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri
At the top of the pitch, the leader sets up a secure anchor system,
also called a belay, from where he can belay as his partner climbs. The
second climber removes the gear from the rock (traditional climbing) or
removes the quickdraw from the bolted hanger (sport climbing). Both
climbers are now at the top of the pitch with all their equipment. Note
that the second is protected from above while climbing, but the leader
is not, so being the leader is more challenging and dangerous. After
completing their climb, with both climbers at the top of the pitch,
they must eventually rappel or otherwise descend the climb in order to
return to their starting point.
Occasionally, climbers may decide to "move together", a risky but
speedy technique also called simul-climbing, in which both leader and
second move at the same time without stopping to belay. The leader -
approximately a rope length above the second - usually places multiple
pieces of protection as he climbs so that the weight of the second
climber might arrest a possible leader's fall. Should it be the second
climber to fall, however, the leader may be pulled from his holds, with
potentially unpleasant results.
Article Source:
http://www.articlesbase.com/extreme-sports-articles/rock-climbing-216005.html
About the Author:
Lee Williams
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